Join the most popular queues, and wait it out with a friend or by watching the Koli dancers and folk musicians performing onstage. There’s much to choose from: bombil pakodas, grilled king crabs, fish curries, prawn biryani, even a simple bangda (mackerel) fish fry can be delicious. Order what everyone else is having, or ask the brisk but friendly Koli ladies in colorful saris for a recommendation.